
Embroidered oak leaf and acorn design on a cream silk tabby waistcoat, 1780-90, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
I have just discovered a blog called The Hidden Wardrobe, which focuses on the costume collection assembled by Charles Paget Wade (1883-1956) which is now housed at Berrington Hall.

Skirt and pocket of a waistcoat embroidered with sprays of flowers and leaves on ivory ribbed silk, 1775-85, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
Charles Wade was an eccentric collector who amassed a huge variety of historic artefacts at his Cotswold home, Snowshill Manor. He was fascinated by the aura of old, beautiful and well-made objects, and Snowshill is still an extraordinarily evocative place to visit.

Running sprays of leaves in gold purl, passing and sequins on the leading edges of a silver lamé silk waistcoat, 1775-80, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
After the National Trust acquired Wade’s collections the costumes were taken to Berrington to improve their storage conditions. The Hidden Wardrobe now provides a glimpse of some of the 2,203 eighteenth- and nineteenth-century costume items in the collection.

Buttons and skirt of a waistcoat embroidered with leaves and flowers, 1780-90, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
I was particularly struck by these sumptuous men’s waistcoats from the late eighteenth century. I suppose these represented the style that the Regency dandy Beau Brummell was reacting against when he crafted the minimalist look that is still influencing men’s suits today.

Front view of a waistcoat embroidered with leaves and flowers, 1780-90, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
These pre-Brummell waistcoats, by contrast, project a more exuberant kind of masculinity – more Versace than Armani, perhaps.

Skirts and pocket of a waistcoat embroidered with leaves and flowers, 1780-90, in the Wade collection. ©National Trust
I am also fascinated by the interaction between the floral motifs, the colours and the background textures of the fabrics. They hint at the artistry of the anonymous tailors and embroiderers who created these items, now once again being brought to public attention through digital means.